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[Web Creator] [LMSOFT]
VC Commodore Glass and Window Issues
Phoenix Mechanical
Soaring

Master window switch - The main reasons for the master window switch to stop working are dirt, dust, spilt drinks, cigarette ash etc, which fall in past the switch buttons and contaminate the internal electrical contacts. Once the contacts become dirty, current draw is increased through the switch, which in turn melts the plastic internals of the switch, and the switch no longer works. If you do get a new one, make sure you keep it clean.

Cast front Power window regulators - The front Power window regulators are bolted to the inside of the door frame, and these bolts can work loose over time. If left unchecked the mechanism can begin to twist and eventually snap in several places. The latter model VK and VL pressed steel regulators and motors can be used in VB's and are more durable.

Window tilt - As the front window regulators wear with age and use, the windows may tilt forward while being wound up. If this is left untreated, damage to the regulator, rubbers and glass may occur. Holden's have allowed for adjustment of the front window regulators which is mounted to the inner frame of the door, and has a slide, which is moveable. 2 10 mm bolts hold this slide in position, and with the door trim removed they are clearly visible. With the window 90% up, loosen these 2 bolts and pull the slide down. Retighten the 2 bolts and check window operation. If the window still tilts and the slide is as far down as possible, a new regulator may be required. It is also important to make sure that all window rubbers are in their correct place, as dislodged window rubbers can stress the regulator beyond useable. Bailey channel rubbers (go around the window in the top of the door frame), are available genuine and non-genuine new. Belt mould rubbers (sit against the base of the glass, and are usually responsible for scratching the glass) are also available non-genuine new. Early SL/E's with electric windows, use a cast window regulator. These have a tendancy to crack and fall apart, and many times damage the inner door frame. If a window regulator starts to loosen from the door frame, eventually it will damage the mounting positions on the door frame, and in some cases, a new door is required. If you need to replace a VB to VH electric front regulator, you are better off installing a VK-VL pressed steel type, and do away with the cast type. VK-VL regulators bolt directly into VB-H doors and are more durable.

Leaking head lights - Leaks are mainly caused by the glass rubber seal not sealing. The glass can be removed and new seals are available. Sometimes either moisture and/or water enters via the rear rubber cap that covers the globe. It has also been found that the mounting brackets (which are riveted to the body of the headlight) become loose. Re-riveting with the use of sealant usually works.

Water leaks - If you have isolated the front windscreen as a possible leak, and there is no obvious rust, there is a body join that does leak. Up underneath each end of the dash is a body join, where the plenum chamber meets the door pillars. These are sealed when on the assembly line, but after time this sealant can become brittle.